Crocheted Socks Template
Design Your Own Socks Pattern



Here is how to adjust the socks pattern for different sizes.

Print out a copy of my women's socks, or men's socks, or baby socks as a reference while you do the adjustments. Then print out this template. I will leave spaces for you to fill in your stitch counts.

First fill in what size or who you are making the socks for (Example, a 6 year old child)

__________________________________________


GAUGE: This will help you to make adjustments for different sizes.
This is for worsted weight yarn only, using a 4.50 mm hook.
See http://www.crochetandknitting.com/charts.htm for a hook conversion chart.
4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch

This is the gauge I get. Some people crochet tighter or looser so you will want to check your gauge, also if you are using other yarn, such as baby yarn, sport weight, chunky, etc, or a different size hook you will have to get the gauge first by doing a small piece of 10 or so single crochet and about 10 rows. Then measure to see how many stitches to the inch and how many rows to the inch. Then use those numbers to multiply or divide as per my instructions below.

Fill this in:
Type of yarn you are using:

_______________________

Size of hook:

_______________________

Gauge:

_____ sc = 1 inch

_____ rows = 1 inch

Determine how high you want the sock top to be. Then multiply the inches by 4 (Remember this number is an example only and is for worsted weight and a 4.50 mm hook only, use the figures you got if using a different type of yarn and hook.), plus add 1 to come up with the number of stitches to begin with.

For example, if you want the top to be 5 inches, multiply 5 x 4 = 20 + 1 = 21. Begin your sock with 21 chs. You have to add the one chain as it's the turning chain but it is not counted in the stitch count for the row. Your stitch count would be 20 sc.

This sock top is ___ inches in length.
Ch ___ to begin.

Your First Row would be:
1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end.
_________ sc in row.

Second Row would be:
1 sc (through the back loop of st only) in each ___ sc, to end of row, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on all rows throughout the pattern.)

All next rows are the same as your second row.

Once the sock top is wide enough to fit around the person's lower shin, fill in the number of rows you have ________

Then proceed to the joining row:
ss to join Row ____ (your last row) to Row 1. Turn inside out. This is now the right side.

You now have a tube shape of ribbing.
To start the foot of the sock, with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to first sc at beginning.
__________ sc. (fill in the number of sc you just made)

HEEL
Now take the number of sc you got above and divide it by 2. If you have an odd number, then subtract one sc so you have an even number of sc.
________ (fill in your sc count)

ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1, (remember, ch 1 doesn't count in the stitch count) 1 sc in next ___ sc, ch 1, turn.

The next ROWS are the same as Row 1.
Do enough rows so your heel is long enough to fit down to the bottom of the heel of the person you are making the socks for. You could measure how many inches from the top of their heel to the bottom and using your gauge, figure out how many rows you need. Or you could do as I sometimes do, if the person is there handy, have them try the sock on. (Make sure your work doesn't start unravelling while they put it on!)

The NEXT ROW: Find the 4 sc in the middle of the row. 1 sc in each sc until you come to the 4 middle sc. Then do 2 sc together twice. 1 sc in each sc to end of row, ch 1, turn.
You now have _____ sc. (This will be 2 less sc than you had in the previous rows.)

Next ROW: 1 sc in each sc to end of row, ch 1, turn.

Next ROW: This row closes up the heel. Find the 4 sc in the middle of the row. 1 sc in each sc until you come to the 4 middle sc, 2 sc together twice. Now fold heel in half with wrong side of heel facing you, (See picture beside Row 13 of the Women's sock pattern) ss the next sc to the last sc you did before the middle 4 sc which you just decreased by crocheting 2 sc together twice. ss the next sc to the next sc before that one, ss the next sc to the next sc before that one, continue like this until all sc are joined together. ch 1, turn heel to the right side.

CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT :
With wrong side facing, space ___ sc evenly along edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next ___ sc along the bottom of the sock top, place ___ sc evenly along edge of the other side of the heel rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
(Fill in your number of stitches _____ sc)

NEXT ROW: Take the number of sc you spaced evenly along the heels rows on the previous row and subtract 2 = ______ sc. Sc to there and then do 2 sc together twice. Take the number of stitches you had along the bottom of the sock top of previous row and subtract 2 = ____ sc. Sc to there and then do 2 sc together twice. The stitches remaining will be the same as the number of sc you spaced evenly along the heels rows on the other side of the heel, subtract 2 = ____ sc. 1 sc in each of those sc, then ss to join, ch 1, turn.
Total stitch count on this row ______ sc.

NEXT ROW: Take the stitch count along heel row from previous row and subtract 1 = ____ sc, Sc to there and then do 2 sc together twice. Take the number of stitches you had along the bottom of the sock top of previous row and subtract 2 = ____ sc. Sc to there and then do 2 sc together twice. The remaining stitches will be 1 stitch less than the stitch count on the previous row ____ sc. 1 sc in each of those sc, then ss to join, ch 1, turn.
Total stitch count on this row ______ sc.

NEXT ROW: Take the stitch count along heel row from previous row and add 1 = ____ sc, Sc to there and then do 2 sc together only once this time. Take the number of stitches you had along the bottom of the sock top of previous row and subtract 2 = ____ sc. Sc to there and then do 2 sc together only once. The remaining stitches will be 1 stitch more than the stitch count on the previous row ____ sc. 1 sc in each of those sc, then ss to join, ch 1, turn.
Total stitch count on this row ______ sc.

You continue decreasing as in the last row until the sock is the right fit for the rest of the foot.
_________ Record your number of decreasing rows here.
Depending on the size of the sock, the yarn and hook used, you may not need to decrease any more. If the sock is still too lose for the rest of the foot, continue decreasing as above until it fits nicely around the rest of foot after the heel.

_________ Record your number of stitches in the last decreasing row.

Then continue crocheting enough rows until the sock is about an inch and a half from the end of the toes.
_________ Record your number of rows here.

DECREASE FOR END OF SOCK:
NEXT ROW: - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, *1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to * twice more or until end of row, if any sc are left, make 1 sc in each one, then ss to join, ch1 turn. (______ sc)

NEXT ROW: - 1 sc in each sc of previous row, ss to join, ch 1, turn.

NEXT ROW: - *1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to * 3 more times, or until end of row, if any sc are left, make 1 sc in each one, then ss to join, ch1 turn. (______ sc)

NEXT ROW: - 1 sc in each sc of previous row, ss to join, ch 1, turn.

The rest of the decreasing depends on the size of your sock. If they are quite small, you could close up the end here. If you want to decrease more, continue:

NEXT ROW: - *1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog*, repeat from * to * 3 more times, or until end of row, if any sc are left, make 1 sc in each one, then ss to join, ch1 turn. (______ sc)

NEXT ROW: - 1 sc in each sc of previous row, ss to join, ch 1, turn.

NEXT ROW: - 1 sc in next sc, *2 sc tog*, repeat from * to * until end of row, if there is a sc left over, make 1 sc in it and then, ch 1.

Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and fasten off.

© 2001 Susan Norrad



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