NEW! Here is a template for making adjustments for different sizes.
MATERIALS
2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted.
(This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes,
so I am really not sure how much I used)
Hook - 4.50. See Charts for conversions.
Abbreviations used:
st - stitch
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
beg - beginning
tog - together
This sock will fit a foot length of 9 to 91/2 inches.
4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch - This will help you
to make adjustments for different sizes.
NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will
fit a women’s shoe size 8, see the Men’s Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for
discovering that.
SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length.
Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top)
ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only)
in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on
all rows throughout the pattern.)
ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)
ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on
this row through the back loops only, too.)
ROW 37 - (Joining row)
ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.
You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock,
with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to
first sc at beg. (36 sc)
HEEL
ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1,
(remember, ch 1 doesn’t count in the stitch count)
1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn.
(Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.)
ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1.
ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn.
(16 sc)
ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side
of heel facing you, (See picture on left.)
(Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer
and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don’t
care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing)
ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row,
ch 1, turn heel to the right side.
Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here
to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still
show you how it’s done.
CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT -
ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along
edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel
rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc,
2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice),
1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc
in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc)
ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller
sock. )
ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog,
repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn.
(26 sc)
ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc)
ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
(18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more
decreasing rows such as row 41.)
ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1
sc in last sc, ch 1.
(10 sc)
Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle
weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and
fasten off.
NEW! Here is a template for making adjustments for different sizes.
MATERIALS
2 - 50g balls of 4 ply knitting worsted.
(This is an estimate, I usually buy larger sizes,
so I am really not sure how much I used)
Hook - 4.50. See Charts for conversions.
My notes, such as - where to make adusjments for other sizes,
are in blue.
st - stitch
ch - chain
ss - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
beg - beginning
tog - together
This sock will fit a foot length of 9 to 91/2 inches.
4 sc = 1 inch, 4 rows of sc = 1 inch - This will help you
to make adjustments for different sizes.
NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will
fit a women’s shoe size 8, see the Men’s Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for
discovering that.
SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length.
Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top)
ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only)
in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on
all rows throughout the pattern.)
ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)
ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on
this row through the back loops only, too.)
ROW 37 - (Joining row)
ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.
You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock,
with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to
first sc at beg. (36 sc)
HEEL
ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1,
(remember, ch 1 doesn’t count in the stitch count)
1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn.
(Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.)
ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1.
ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn.
(16 sc)
ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side
of heel facing you, (See picture on left.)
(Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer
and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don’t
care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing)
ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row,
ch 1, turn heel to the right side.
Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here
to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still
show you how it’s done.
CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT -
ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along
edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel
rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc,
2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice),
1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc
in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc)
ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller
sock. )
ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog,
repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn.
(26 sc)
ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc)
ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
(18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more
decreasing rows such as row 41.)
ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1
sc in last sc, ch 1.
(10 sc)
Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle
weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and
fasten off.
© 2001 Susan Norrad
More Free Patterns - My Own Designs
Sue’s CrochetandKnitting.com
http://www.crochetandknitting.com
NOTE:For a lighter sock, using sportweight yarn that will
fit a women’s shoe size 8, see the Men’s Socks pattern. Thanks to Norma W. for
discovering that.
SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length.
Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top)
ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only)
in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on
all rows throughout the pattern.)
ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)
ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on
this row through the back loops only, too.)
ROW 37 - (Joining row)
ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.
You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock,
with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to
first sc at beg. (36 sc)
HEEL
ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1,
(remember, ch 1 doesn’t count in the stitch count)
1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn.
(Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.)
ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1.
ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn.
(16 sc)
ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side
of heel facing you, (See picture on left.)
(Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer
and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don’t
care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing)
ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row,
ch 1, turn heel to the right side.
Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here
to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still
show you how it’s done.
CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT -
ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along
edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel
rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc,
2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice),
1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc
in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc)
ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller
sock. )
ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog,
repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn.
(26 sc)
ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc)
ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
(18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more
decreasing rows such as row 41.)
ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1
sc in last sc, ch 1.
(10 sc)
Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle
weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and
fasten off.
© 2001 Susan Norrad
SOCK TOP - This sock top is 7 inches in length.
Ch 30 (ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top)
ROW 1 - 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each ch to end. (29 sc)
ROW 2 - 1 sc (through the back loop of st only)
in each 29 sc, ch 1, turn. (Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on
all rows throughout the pattern.)
ROWS 3 to 35 - Same as Row 2.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.)
ROW 36 - 1 sc in each 29 sc. (Be sure to do all stitches on
this row through the back loops only, too.)
ROW 37 - (Joining row)
ss to join Row 36 to Row 1. Turn inside out.
You now have a tube shape of ribbing. To start the foot of the sock,
with right side facing you, ch 1, 1 sc at base of ch 1, 1 sc along each end of ribbing rows, ss to join to
first sc at beg. (36 sc)
ch more for a longer sock top, less for a shorter sock top
29 sc
through the back loop of st only
Note: do not count the ch 1 in your stitch count on
all rows throughout the pattern.
Add more rows for a larger sock, omit some rows for a smaller sock.
Be sure to do all stitches on
this row through the back loops only, too.
Joining row
36 sc
HEEL
ROW 1 - 1 sc in first sc at the base of ch 1,
(remember, ch 1 doesn’t count in the stitch count)
1 sc in next 17 sc, ch 1, turn.
(Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.)
ROWS 2 to 10 - Same as Row 1.
ROW 11 - 1 sc in next 7, 2 sc tog twice, 1 sc in next 7 sc, ch 1, turn.
(16 sc)
ROW 12 - 1 sc in next 16 sc, ch 1, turn.
ROW 13 - 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog twice, fold heel in half with wrong side
of heel facing you, (See picture on left.)
(Next, you are basically sewing along the bottom of the heel to shape it, if you prefer
and would find it easier, just sew it. I prefer to slip stitch it together as I don’t
care for sewing. Continue on with crochet where you ended sewing)
ss the next sc to the 6th sc on this Row, ss the next sc to the 5th sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 4th sc of this Row, ss the next sc to the 3rd sc of this Row,
ss the next sc to the 2nd sc of this Row, ss the last sc to the 1st sc of this Row,
ch 1, turn heel to the right side.
Note: If you are still having a problem with the heel, Click Here
to see a hand drawn illustration on how to do it. It is for the baby socks, however it will still
show you how it’s done.
CONTINUE WITH THE REST OF THE FOOT -
ROW 14 - With wrong side facing, space 13 sc evenly along
edge of heel rows, 1 sc in next 18 sc, place 13 sc evenly along edge of heel
rows, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (44 sc)
ROW 15 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog (twice) 1 sc in next 16 sc,
2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (40 sc)
ROW 16 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog (twice), 1 sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc tog (twice),
1 sc in next 9 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (36 sc)
ROW 17 - 1 sc in next 10 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc
in next 10 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (34 sc)
ROW 18 - 1 sc in next 9 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 9sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (32 sc)
ROW 19 - 1 sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 12 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc,
ss to join, ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
ROW 20 - 1 sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROWS 21 to 36 - Same as Row 20.
(Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller
sock. )
ROW 37 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc tog,
repeat from * to * twice more, 1 sc in last sc, ss to join, ch1 turn.
(26 sc)
ROW 38 - 1 sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 39 - 1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn. (22 sc)
ROW 40 - 1 sc in next 22 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
ROW 41 - 1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 3 more times,
1 sc in next 2 sc, ss to join, ch 1, join. (18 sc)
ROW 42 - 1 sc in next 18 sc, ss to join, ch 1, turn.
(18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more
decreasing rows such as row 41.)
ROW 43 - 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc tog, repeat from * to * 7 more times, 1
sc in last sc, ch 1.
(10 sc)
Cut yarn leaving an 8 to 10 inch tail, pull tail through loop of last ch 1. With darning needle
weave yarn through sts of last row and pull tight to close up end. Secure closing and
fasten off.
remember, ch 1 doesn’t count in the stitch count
Add more sc for a larger heel, less for a smaller heel.
16 sc
See picture on left.
44 sc
40 sc
36 sc
34 sc
32 sc
30 sc
Add more rows for a larger sock, omit rows for a smaller
sock.
26 sc
22 sc
18 sc
18 sc - For a larger sock, you will have to do some more
decreasing rows such as row 41.
10 sc